Traffic in Mumbai

Last night I went to a friends book launch. Go out and get your copy of “Operation Lipstick” today!

The book launch was in Juhu (B). I work in Bandra East (A).

As you can see it was 11.5 kms (7 miles) away from my office. It took about 80 minutes to get there! (Google maps has no concept of the magnitude of traffic in Mumbai, as you can see they predict it’s a 20 minute ride).

The traffic is the worst part of Mumbai. It is really isolating as it makes me reluctant to go anywhere. Unfortunately, the roads are in pretty poor condition (with the exception of the highways) so even when moving it is an unpleasant bumpy ride.

Mumbai has developed quite organically so roads and buildings and everything else were added on to existing infrastructure as the need arose. There seems to be very little pre-planning to the development of the city. And the locals will be the first to tell you that the infrastructure in Mumbai is dismal. In the past 10 years the city has seen a spike in population as those in rural areas have flooded the city in hopes of higher income. The city can’t handle the population today. In fact the demand for housing means rent rates are close to what I see in Manhattan.

Thankfully I have a wonderful place to live and an easy, short commute so I have very little need to travel. When I do venture out I can easily occupy myself with books and other distractions on my phone, no matter how slowly we are progressing. Everyone in the city understands the trials of the road system, so being late is not something to worry about.

Many locals realize the time “lost” to traffic and employ a driver so they can sit in the back and read or sleep during their commute. Further, many locals don’t want to navigate the confusing streets and crazy drivers. Labor, as you know, is quite cheap in India, so a driver costs in the magnitude of $10-$12 per day.

Since my first week here my company has offered to find me a car and driver for my stay here. Well, 2+ months later we have nailed down the details (another example of not worrying about time). The cost is $750 per month and work would pick up half of that, so I would pay $375 per month plus gas. A colleague here in a similar situation pays $200 per month and therefore $375 seems quite steep. Given that my 80 minute ride last night only cost $3 I can’t rationalize $375/ month, even if that means I don’t have to worry about hailing cabs and will always be in air conditioning.

I know this is the only time in my life that I will ever have the opportunity to have my own driver- which may be reason enough alone to get one, yet I am going to pass.

Sri Lanka

Just back from a weekend get-away in Sri Lanka. Tuesday was a holiday so with just taking one vacation day I was able to have a full 4 days to explore India's little neighboring country to the South East. However, besides for a few hours in the capital of Colombo, I didn't stray far from my beach side guesthouse in Unawatuna, in the south of Sri Lanka. Why would I leave what has been named one of the top ten beaches in Asia??

The beach was no more than a ten minute walk from one end to the other and lined most of the way with small restaurants offering lounge chairs in the day and candle lit tables for dinner and drinks after the sun went down. As it is the low season there was never more than a handful of customers at any place.

Most days I had a lazy breakfast at one of the beach restaurants and from there graduated ten feet closer to the water into a lounge chair under an umbrella. The heat was practically unbearable in Sri Lanka and I got only the faintest whisper of a tan as I stayed in shade as much as possible. The sea breeze did help to cool the air down and of course the water was always just a few steps away and quite refreshing. I read 75% of my book- Gone Girl, in Sri Lanka, and also met some really nice other travels. I met a group of Americans/Brits who are similarly working in India for half a year. They are in Bangalore and working for KPMG. I also met a group of guys who travel all around the Indian Ocean on ships as security against pirates! No joke!

Good Morning Sri Lanka!

Baby Turtles
 
Yes, they were in a Hatchery, not the ocean, but still supes cool. 

3 days. 3 inches

more animals!! 

Dr. Seuss tree

cocktails on the beach!!!!

fresh coconut

dinner on the beach

morning boating

fresh pineapple on the beach

I spent the last few hours of the trip in the capital, Colombo. Went to a couple markets- my favorite pastime. 

I figured there was something in high demand at this store. It turns out these 20+ men were staring at a 12 inch TV showing a cricket game. 

Henna tattoos

At weddings, festivals, and other special celebrations women in India have their hands covered in beautiful patterns with semi permanent henna dye.

Feet too

BUT, you don't need a special occasion!  On Saturday I went with some friends to a local salon and had my own hands dyed in the way of ancient traditions. 

the beginning

check out the cone she is squeezing to get the  paste (of ground henna) on my hands

We watched "Dancing with the Stars India" on TV while we henna-ed. 

DONE. Now about 30 minutes to dry.  And then we flake the paste off. 

final product!

LOVE IT!

I chose the simplest design offered. There were ones that went all the way to my elbows and covered every spot of skin in squiggles and dots. It was a little too intense for me. These tattoos should last 7-10 days, depending how much soap and water I use. The only downside that I have found is that often i glance at my palms quickly and think my hands are dirty. It's a little unnerving. 

Since we were being quite Indian we went to a sari store next door and tried on saris. I didn't get one, but I'm hoping I have a wedding or another special occasion to wear one before I leave. 

Thailand Trip!

You've probably heard me say it: Bangkok is such a great place cuz it's so close to Thailand. Well the same can be said about India! I am so happy that I currently live just a 4 hour, $320 plane ride from Bangkok. Last weekend I cashed in on this convenience and by the second day of my five day trip I was already planning my return.

The highlight of my five days in Thailand was, well, EVERYTHING. Massages, Thai food, speaking Thai, going back to my shopping stops and spa in Bangkok, stopping every block for Thai snacks, beer from 7-11 for $1.50, tuk-tuks, getting my favorite seat on the van back to my town, being remembered by the sellers I bought my food from at the market and Rosh Hashanah dinner at a welcoming house. The NEON highlights of the trip were seeing my American Peace Corps friends in Bangkok and my Thai best friends in my town.

Below is a photo journalist's nightmare of a trip recap.

Off I go!

"Yindee dawn rap!!!" 

One of the first stops was at good old 7-11!!

Taro filled bread. One of the many 7-11 delicacies. 

Street cleaning in Bangkok

CITIBANK!

Tuk-tuk

A wonderful street vendor making my first of many Thai Iced Teas

Sliced mango on Khao San Road

Shopping on Khao San.
 It was the first time I had ever been on Khao San Rd not as a Volunteer or Student (i.e. I was making more than $5 a day). I did some damage. 

Foot massages at my favorite spa. I haven't been a regular customer there in 6 years, but I must have been a good customer even living 300 kms away because they remembered me. 

one of my purchases

Dinner with Julia!! 

Then off to a club for dancing!

At the Thrasher Party with the gorgeous Julia. 

Sky Train!

Julia exiting the Sky Train on our way to Rosh Hashanah

Home made challah. HOLLA!!!
It was pouring when we were at this welcoming home to celebrate the new year. When we left we were wading in  12-15 inches of water. 

Late night noodles

mmmmmmmm

Our restaurant. 

Traffic in Bangkok

After a glorious weekend in Bangkok I joined the morning commuters on my first leg to  Uthai Thani

I got on at Phrom Phon and off at Anusarawee. 8 stops.

knome crook. Breakfast of champions. 

At Victory Monument (Anusarawee) 

Picked up some fried bananas (second breakfast of champions) right before getting the van to Uthai. 

This was the van that took me the 4 hours to Uthai. I got my favorite seat! 

Where I bought my bus ticket. And my 3rd Thai Iced Tea (from the man in the far far right). 

BACK IN UTHAI!! 

Look how much Munglee has grown! 

First stop in Uthai. 4th Thai Iced Tea

Lunch with Wendy, Jeeda, and their Aunt

Then time for our 2 hour massages

One of the market sellers who remembered me :) 

I LOVE walking through the market and seeing all the yummy foods

My favorite fruit seller.

Walks home from the market always mean balancing  many bags of  yummy  Thai food

Dinner just the way it used to be every night! Som Tom!!!

Our bedroom! 

Munglee watching TV

Day 2 in Uthai we went on a trip to a waterfall. We passed through a pineapple plantation. 

Munglee playing in the river

Picnic lunch!

We made it to the waterfall (or 700 m away)

Having fun on the hike. 

Bamboo bridge. 

View from the back seat of the van. This was a beautiful tree lined street.

Buddha statue at our second stop. Who knew Uthai  Thani (far out in the province) had  hot springs?

playing in the hot spring water (that is piped in)

feeding the fishies with papaya

Road-side stop for pumpkins. 

Road-side stop for bananas and something similar to donuts. 

The delicious donut-like snack

anyone notice I'm obsessed with rice fields?

Jeeda snacking on fruit from the trees

On the way home we stopped so I could get my hair washed.  One of the biggest treats I had when I was living in Uthai was a cold hair washing (read: 15 minute head massage) on a HOT day (read: any day). 

Jeeda on the Mai Naam Sa-gai-gran. Check out the house boats in the distance. 

me, Jeeda, and Munglee (who was pouting because the next stop was dropping him off at school)

Munglee is so happy!

Munglee's school

One last stop to get a shake (this time I got taro instead of Thai iced tea) for the van ride back to Bangkok. And we  saw the cutest momma cat and kittens. 

Back in Bangkok for the day. Had an amazing street side dinner  with  Julia and Laura, but sadly didn't get a photo.

I had time for one last foot massage before my trip home. 

Guards at the Bangkok airport.

My bed for the ride home. 4 seats together on a plane is perfect for me!  

Thailand- always in my heart.