Sunday, July 30, 2006

Party time in Bangkok

All my girls came into Bangkok this weekend and a few even managed to stay Monday with me. It's been one long party (with a few stops for shopping along the way).

We've been doing our typical Bangkok partying. We start in the dorm room at Tae Wez guesthouse- our home away from home in Bangkok. When I arrive at Tae Wez they all great me by name and I don't need to register. Sweetest people, as all Thais are. The dorm room is a large room with 5 beds and lots of floor space to spread out. When we're there we take over the place. It's nice because you can't rent by the bed, you have to rent the room, so we take over, as I said.

So a typical night in Bangkok involves returning to our room from a day on the town around 4 or 5. And then we usually take turns in the shower while everyone lounges around. Imagine an Ipod Speaker playing and a bunch of girls relaxing on someone's bed devouring whatever copy of 'People' magazine someone had sent from America. After a while of showering and relaxing in our pak-am-as (Thai sarong) or various states of dress a couple people will make a 'seven' run.

'Seven' (or 'Sehwen' if you want to get specific) is what Thais call 7-11, so therefore so do we. They come back with a few beers or some Thai whiskey and coke lights and we sip (through a straw of course because that's how ya drink in Thailand) while we finish dressing and doing make-up. That's the fun part. I usually get requests to put make-up on a few of the girls. Although Tara always makes sure I do it before I'm too far into my beer because once I went a little heavy on the eyeshadow and made her look like a Thai hooker.

After make-up the music usually gets a little funkier and we have a dance party or break out the playing cards, whatever mood we're in. And if it's not downpouring we usually head out by 9ish.

Our Saturday and Sunday evenings were a lot like this. Tonight we're hitting up the Black Eyed Peas concert in Bangkok. It's my last night and since I have to leave for the airport at 4:30AM we're trying to make it an all-nighter!!

Bangkok is so great because the Thai 'rules' of dress, such as nothing showing shoulders or lots of leg, can be thrown out the door. It feels so fabulous to put on a pair of heels and go out dancing with the girls. As tonight is my last night I have been requested to wear my chiquita banana outfit. That is my alter ego here in Peace Corps, and she's always a lot of fun!
Getting ready with Tara at the Dorm
Streetside dinner
Piggy-back ride from Mike at Black Eyed Peas Concert
Buckets with the girls

Wednesday, July 26, 2006

Leaving PC

It's official. I told Peace Corps I want to go home. I'm coming home!!!

One of the hardest things about this process of leaving is that I've been so scared how people in Thailand would react. I was worried about people from my town friends, to my American Volunteer friends, to the Peace Corps staff. I emailed with a girl who left PC early about 2 years ago and she told me horror stories how people in her group were mean to her about leaving and how the country director said she was never welcome back on the PC office grounds. I figured that when I left people make take it that I'm no longer respecting what they are doing, since I'm choosing to leave. This is by no means true, but I can see where people may think that.

Anyway, I've had nothing but positive responses. I have never felt more love than the last week in my town. Everyone said how wonderful I was and how much great work I did, how great my Thai speaking is, and how I better not forget them and how they love me. The outpour of love took my breathe away.

As for Volunteers, I told my close friends a little less than a month ago and have been trying to tell as many people in person as possible, so as to avoid the rumor mill. I don't know how I could have doubted the support I would get from my group because everyone has had the most positive encouraging things to say to me. While people are sad to see me go, everyone has been encouraging that this is a great step for me. At least 5 people said they were jealous that I was leaving and that they would be too if they had something lined up to go to.

And yesterday I told my program manager from Peace Corps. Khun Siwaporn is your typical Thai woman in many ways, and very a-typical in many ways. On the atypical side she is a strong, independent, single 30-something Thai woman with an amazing job and no plans for a husband. On the typical side she is sweet and caring and loving. When I told her I wanted to return to America she was shocked and sad, but also expressed her excitement for me and inquired about the program. When I told her I'd be getting my masters in Organizational Psychology and what all that means she told me I should come back after and work for the Peace Corps in Thailand. Guess she wasn't too mad.

Everyone else in the office has been extremely supportive. Now I just have a few days of medical work. Fun stuff like I have to poop in a cup for 3 days in a row!! (to check for parasites). And lots of paper work to finalize. And I will leave on Tuesday morning.

Peace Corps has to fly me to my 'home of record' which is Boston, MA, and thankfully one of the most expensive places to fly from Bangkok. They were willing to change my plane ticket to anywhere in the US and if it was more than bkk-bos I could pay the difference. So I am headed for a 5 day layover in San Francisco, then a 3 day visit to Anna in Chicago then to Boston on Wednesday August 9th. All for $70!!

Monday, July 24, 2006

Shopping spree

I arrived in Bangkok late last night. Jeeda, Wendy, and Munglee drove me in with all my stuff in the back of their pick-up truck. I was supposed to leave Sunday, so Saturday we did all the 'last night' things. Really what that means is a nice dinner at Jeeda and Wendy's, then a visit to my favorite shake place, where I got my last oreo shake, and then a nice ride all around town seeing everything in the dusk and saying good-bye. Friday night was the big going away party with all my school teacher friends and government workers. It was a big feast where we went around the table and everyone said something nice about me and then I have a little speech and thanked everyone and said how much I loved them and loved Uthai Thani and how I wouldn't forget them, and I'll come back to visit often.

I've had a good week to pack up so the process wasn't my usual rushed experience. And I knew if I didn't pack something it would go to a needy person, so, as the Thai's do, I could just leave a lot of stuff in the house. I also filled a few large bags with clothes and books that my co-teacher gave to the needy students at school. There will be kids walking around with American clothing for years to come!

Jeeda, Wendy, and I have always talked about going out to a dance club together and last night was supposed to be that night. But we didn't get into Bangkok till 10, so we all just climbed into bed and went to sleep, until they had to leave at 4am to get to work on time. It was an ok good-bye, not as sad as I thought. I've had my moments of crying: a few times in the last weeks I've gone into their house crying over leaving. Last time Wendy broke into tears too. In usual Thai fashion we just say 'Never mind' and brush it all off, but I was happy that Jeeda and Wendy acknowledged my tears and there were lots of hugs to be had by all.

So today's been good. Feels like just another day in Bangkok really. I went to the mall and got some shoes, a few $2.50 DVD's, and a couple cute shirts. I'm trying to take advantage of what I know I will look back on and think is really cheap prices, but I'm not quite there yet. Can you believe I think $10 is a lot for a shirt. I can see how ridiculous I'm being, yet am still having trouble coughing up the money.

If I think it's tough living on $5 a day, what am I going to do as a student in NY making nothing??

memories

Once, when I was a child and young enough to go into the bathroom stall with my mom at a public rest stop, someone knocked on the door.

"Hello," my mom said.

After realizing that was all she was going to say, I asked my mom, "Why didn't you tell them someone's in here?"

My mom said, "They will know someone's in here because I said 'Hello'"

I thought she was a genius.

Sunday, July 23, 2006

Love in a bottle

I've never felt more love in my town than since I told all my friends that I'm leaving to go back to America.
"But you'll be coming back soon, right?"
"Oh, but you can come live here after grad school."
"Don't go."
"We'll miss you so much."
"Here's some food."
"Here's a present for your mom and dad."
"Don't forget me."
"Let me take you out to dinner before you go."

We had lots of farewell dinners and lunches with all my various friends in town. My principal threw me a big going away party where everyone stood up and said something nice to me and good-bye. I stood up and gave a little fare-well speach in Thai. It gave them one more chance to flattery me with compliments about my thai speaking ability (as I've said before- if you can say hello they will bombard you with compliments).

My students were also so full of love. They gave me so many little presents, took so many pictures with me and got me to sign my autograph on everything they owned.

What will I do without my super-star status in America?

free food forever

It's pretty hard to starve in Thailand. I once heard some friends debating how long one could last in Thailand without paying for food. Months surely. Especially since we're Farang (aka Superstars!!). Basically everywhere you go people offer snacks or genuinelly invite you to join a meal. I often get invited to join a meal in progress when I'm out on a run.

The other night I was at the evening market with no real plans, so when my friend who sells coconut desserts invited me to eat dinner with her I said, "Surely." Except that I spoke in Thai and it sounded more like, "Dai, ka."

I really enjoy eating with this friend and her family because they live right at the market, so as we eat dinner and sit at (well on, really) the big table in front of their house we can watch everything going on. She's also a great cook and teaches me as we go. She cooks everything over coals, as many Thai families do.

As I was sitting at this dinner the other night I realized when food was offered to me that I didn't want I felt comfortable decining and they were ok with my answers. When I first got to Thailand I was practically force fed. If I declined food it was taken as an insult and I was offered food every 5 minutes. The frustrating thing was I would see Thais declining food, or not being offered food every 5 minutes.

Well, now, as the Blog title says, I'm thai. I have mastered all the culturally appropriate ways to decline food and not send insults. As well, they know me, and so they don't have to 'take-care' and give me food every 5 minutes.

Aaaah. I have arrived.

Monday, July 17, 2006

Been having some picture problems, but here are a few to go with older posts.


Riding the bull in Bangkok.


View from the guesthouse in Nong Khai. That's the mekong river and Laos.

"I love being clean" project

Robert F. Kennedy noted, "Few will have the greatness to bend history; but each of us can work to change a small portion of events, and in the total of all those acts will be written the history of this generation."


Today was a big day at school. Teaching went as usual with my co-teacher in the morning. We taught the sixth graders about phone numbers and taught the fifth grade about amount words like 'some, few, most, all.' For lunch we had coconut chicken soup, and a cucumber, egg, and pork dish. With rice of course.

After lunch we did part of a small hygiene project. Last week we had some of the health volunteers (remember the training I did for them in March?) come and teach the sixth graders about hand washing and tooth brushing . With lots of fun games too. And then they taught 4 sixth graders to be able to teach the rest of the school in a fun interactive way. So today the 6th graders presented and we gave all 349 students toothbrushes, two tubes of toothpaste. And we had 8 bars of soap for every classroom. This project was funded by a grant by the Friends or Thailand, a group for PCVs from Thailand who have finished service.


learning hand washing techniques

the importance of teeth brushing



look at my new toothpaste and tooth brush!!
On Wednesday I'm accepting submissions for a poster contest about hygiene from the students. The winning poster will run in the provincial newspaper for a month. I can't wait to see the results. Oh, and for the rest of the week those 4 6th graders are going to other local schools to teach about general hygiene.

6th graders with their health posters
close up of a poster

thinking about home

Thousand things rushing through my mind. Just got off the phone with Tara, a fellow PCV. She has been thinking about the next step and going home. She was talking about all the things you give up as a PCV. She said the last time she made a new real friends was a year and half ago- when we all arrived. Romantic relationships are all but impossible. I give credit to PCVs who can have relationships with Thais- for me the language barrier would be too hard to take it for real. And with other volunteers it's certainly going to be long distance- up to 20 hours away from each other. Tara and I both agreed we have many Thai friends in our towns we love dearly, but it's still a little different from a friendship in America. We're not making lots of money, or able to store up much in the way of a nest egg here. And our friends and family in America are all together and we're not able to see them.

And all this is true. And for all these reasons I am so excited to go home. But I can't help but be sad about leaving too.

This morning I sat at the noodle soup stall on the street eating my breakfast and chatting with the noodle seller. Frequently i'd nod my head politely or 'wai' to someone I knew passing by. The noodle seller was telling me how great my thai was, as all Thais do to anyone who can speak three words in the language. But I couldn't help but be happy about being about the ease at which i can have conversations in Thai now, at all the friends I have in my town, and at how I live my life like a Thai in Uthai Thani.

I have my routine here. I know how life works. And I love it.

I am scared to make a whole new routine in America. I am scared that I will become more 'ji rawn' [which means 'hot hearted', or uptight] when my heart has really cooled out here and i've relaxed out in so many ways. I'm scared for how expensive things will be. I'm scared for overwelcoming my stay or doing other things that are culturally different in Thailand. I'm scared for how much I'll miss my lazy days of walking to the market to get my veggies and fruit, and chatting with everyone along the way. i'm scared for hearing about other PC friends who are still in Thailand and hitting up the blue water beaches or gathering for a party night in Bangkok.

These things will be hard whenever I go home, even if I stayed here for 5 years. I know I am coming home, so while I am trying to soak up every amazing minute of life in Thailand, I am also so excited to go home.

Transistions are always hard, but I'm trying to start a new page with this one and not agonize over it. Once I get home I will throw myself into school and life with Americans and only look to Thailand to see how much I loved it when I was here, and to contact my friends here, but not to wonder 'what if' about staying longer.