After a fun night on the town I saw the sun rise in Bangkok, got an hour of sleep, packed my bag, got my last Thai Ice Tea and headed to the airport for 20 hours of travel. Then a stop in SF. Then a few more hours to Boston.
It was hard to leave, but I know I'll be back with the Peace Corps in a few weeks.
As I was flying I started thinking about all the travel I did this year: New Orleans, Alaska, Mexico, Israel, lots of times between Boston & SF, SE Asia: Hong Kong, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Cambodia, not to mention driving across the US. And I was thinking about all the traveling that consisted of. Here are some numbers I came up with for 2004:
Number of Hours in a plane: 180
Days that adds up to: 7.5
Percent of my year on a plane: 2
Number of airports: 20
Number of Countries: 8
Number of Hours on a bus: uncountable....
Friday, December 24, 2004
Saturday, December 18, 2004
Sleeping on the beach
I knew it would be a night to remember sleeping on the beach in the coast of Cambodia. A few of the open bars offer free accomidation (matress and mosquito net on a deck) as long as you have a meal or two there during the day. I love the sound of the waves as I fall asleep and the people hanging out at Shivas Bar were all cool. Great, right? NO!
Late in the afternoon, well after I had checked out of my guesthouse I started feeling sick. Just sneezy and runny, I think due to late nights drinking with the Irish crew. So last night after hanging out for a while I decided to crash early. The music was still going, the lights were still on, but i put in my ear plugs, wrapped myself up in the big nylon hammock, and was so tired I actually fell asleep. Problem is the music went on for what seemed like many hours more. And after my exhaustion turned to simple tiredness I couldn't sleep with the music going. Couldn't get any worse, right? Wrong.
I went in and out of sleep till about 3am when I woke up with the strongest hunger pains I have ever felt. But by now everyone was asleep. I tossed and turned in my "romantic hammock by the ocean" feeling so cold and dirty. Untill my hunger pains actually turned to nausea and I threw up over the side of my "romantic hammock by the ocean."
It was indeed a night to remember.
Late in the afternoon, well after I had checked out of my guesthouse I started feeling sick. Just sneezy and runny, I think due to late nights drinking with the Irish crew. So last night after hanging out for a while I decided to crash early. The music was still going, the lights were still on, but i put in my ear plugs, wrapped myself up in the big nylon hammock, and was so tired I actually fell asleep. Problem is the music went on for what seemed like many hours more. And after my exhaustion turned to simple tiredness I couldn't sleep with the music going. Couldn't get any worse, right? Wrong.
I went in and out of sleep till about 3am when I woke up with the strongest hunger pains I have ever felt. But by now everyone was asleep. I tossed and turned in my "romantic hammock by the ocean" feeling so cold and dirty. Untill my hunger pains actually turned to nausea and I threw up over the side of my "romantic hammock by the ocean."
It was indeed a night to remember.
Friday, December 17, 2004
Time in a bottle
I wish I could capture all the feelings coming through my 5 senses, but words just won't do this experience justice. So many times these past few days on the beach in Cambodia I have looked around and said "Life is good." The sun, the wind, the green water off to the horizon. I spend all day in a lounge chair on the waters edge. The beach is lined with probably 75 bar bungalows behind rows of deck chairs and bright umbrellas. I have stayed at "Two Dolphins" for every meal and shake since I've been here and have really gotten to know the manager. I'm now with some new Irish folks and one has been practicing fire twirling at the waters edge all day and night. It is a big baton with fire at either end, and to see it twirl in the dark night is captivating. The locals are geniouses with the stick.
All day long locals come up to us in our seats and try to sell us fruit salad, sarongs, lobster, spring rolls, chips, massages. Mostly it's kids who are really fun, but can be a bit pestering. We have all bonded with the kids who speak amazing English. My favorite are a pair of 3 year olds who giigle all day long. Last night one of them fell asleep in my arms.
All day long locals come up to us in our seats and try to sell us fruit salad, sarongs, lobster, spring rolls, chips, massages. Mostly it's kids who are really fun, but can be a bit pestering. We have all bonded with the kids who speak amazing English. My favorite are a pair of 3 year olds who giigle all day long. Last night one of them fell asleep in my arms.
Monday, December 13, 2004
watch your step
I went for a run with the Phenom Pehn Hash House Harriers. Like in Chiang Mai we went to a place far from the city center and were running in a small village. Luckily it wasn't anything like the jungle run in CM and we stayed to roads and clear paths. There was one time for about 20 yards we were running in a forest. I was very careful to step exactly where the guy in front of me stepped, but a little distance back. Don't want to find a land mine.
At the end there is a little drinking and some gentle hazing. I had to introduce myself and as I said I was from the U.S. the group, largely made up with non-american ex-pats, let out a collective moan. I was so taken aback I didn't even have time to say that I didn't vote for George Bush.
At the end there is a little drinking and some gentle hazing. I had to introduce myself and as I said I was from the U.S. the group, largely made up with non-american ex-pats, let out a collective moan. I was so taken aback I didn't even have time to say that I didn't vote for George Bush.
Saturday, December 11, 2004
Times up
Turns out my visa for Vietnam was going to run out 2 days before I wanted to leave. I asked a few people and they said it would be no problem, I'd just have to pay $5 for each day I went over. That seemed like a better option than paying $20 for a visa extention.
I took a trip through the Mekong Delta as I was leaving the country, so I passed through customs at a riverside border. In the morning as we got on the boat I told the guide that my visa was 2 days over. She said "OH NO. That is a big problem." I thought she as joking at first, but she wasn't. She said the people who say $5 don't know what they are talking about. It's 50,000 dong a day, unless you get someone corrupt who wants more. 100,000 dong works out to $67. Damn!
So we get to the crossing and I am really nervous. I was prepared and wearing my nicest skirt, and I put on a nice clean button down shirt, fixed my hair, etc. Basically I tried to look like a nice, respectable girl, not a dirty backpacker. While most people went to eat lunch the guide dealt with our passports, and I sat in the chair behind her and tried to smile and look a little nervous, which wasn't hard. Eventually one uniformed man got up and the guide said we had to go talk with him now. She had lied on my behalf and told them I was very sick which is why I stayed too late. Luckily I didn't have to lie; he never asked me why I stayed late. I don't remember exactly what we talked about at first, but he was quite friendly and joking around. After a few minutes he said, why don't you stay in Vietnam longer! And I knew I was in the clear.
Best part? He didn't charge me at all!! But I think my name is on the computer in Vietnam and next time I'm in the country they will be watching me.
I took a trip through the Mekong Delta as I was leaving the country, so I passed through customs at a riverside border. In the morning as we got on the boat I told the guide that my visa was 2 days over. She said "OH NO. That is a big problem." I thought she as joking at first, but she wasn't. She said the people who say $5 don't know what they are talking about. It's 50,000 dong a day, unless you get someone corrupt who wants more. 100,000 dong works out to $67. Damn!
So we get to the crossing and I am really nervous. I was prepared and wearing my nicest skirt, and I put on a nice clean button down shirt, fixed my hair, etc. Basically I tried to look like a nice, respectable girl, not a dirty backpacker. While most people went to eat lunch the guide dealt with our passports, and I sat in the chair behind her and tried to smile and look a little nervous, which wasn't hard. Eventually one uniformed man got up and the guide said we had to go talk with him now. She had lied on my behalf and told them I was very sick which is why I stayed too late. Luckily I didn't have to lie; he never asked me why I stayed late. I don't remember exactly what we talked about at first, but he was quite friendly and joking around. After a few minutes he said, why don't you stay in Vietnam longer! And I knew I was in the clear.
Best part? He didn't charge me at all!! But I think my name is on the computer in Vietnam and next time I'm in the country they will be watching me.
Thursday, December 09, 2004
Vietnam war
I'm in Saigon now. Still with the Irish crew. They have almost as many motorbikes here as in Hanoi. You just have to close your eyes and cross the street. So far this year there have been over 15,000 deaths in the country due to traffic accidents. That's almost 50 a day!
Today was a depressing day as I visited some "American War" spots. The first was a town 2 hours north of Saigon where there are many of the origional underground tunnels and living quarters from the war. Imagine hundreds of kilometers of winding tunnels. First of all I didn't think about how dark it would be. Pitch black. And stuffy. And small!! The vietnamese are tiny people and they purposefully made small tunnels so Americans couldn't fit in if they were ever discovered. I was on my hands and knees a lot of the time. Most of the tunnels we went in were short, but there was one that we went in for 10 minutes. I can not believe people lived like that for years. Let alone the fact that they were concerned for their life the whole time. I don't consider myself too prissy but I was so sweaty and dirty and unhappy about the bats by the end of those 10 minutes. Was I really just complaining about haveing wet feet for a few days? What a brat!
Then it was on to the war museum which had the most graphic pictures of the war. GIs hunched waiting to fire in ditches, vietnamese escaping acrossing rivers with their babies over their heads, two little Vietnamese boys walking down the road, and lieing dead in the next picture, GIs holding up the heads of Vietnamese as trophys, babies born with body parts missing. I spent a little while talking with a Vietnamese man just a little older than I am who lost his hands and leg at the age of ten by a landmine. Really friendly, kind man. He was excited when I said I was from the US.
For me the most poinient display in the entire museum was a little quote displayed at the entryway to a building that showed pictures of all the Vietnamese suffering. The quote is from July 4th, 1776.
We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Happiness.
If only....
Today was a depressing day as I visited some "American War" spots. The first was a town 2 hours north of Saigon where there are many of the origional underground tunnels and living quarters from the war. Imagine hundreds of kilometers of winding tunnels. First of all I didn't think about how dark it would be. Pitch black. And stuffy. And small!! The vietnamese are tiny people and they purposefully made small tunnels so Americans couldn't fit in if they were ever discovered. I was on my hands and knees a lot of the time. Most of the tunnels we went in were short, but there was one that we went in for 10 minutes. I can not believe people lived like that for years. Let alone the fact that they were concerned for their life the whole time. I don't consider myself too prissy but I was so sweaty and dirty and unhappy about the bats by the end of those 10 minutes. Was I really just complaining about haveing wet feet for a few days? What a brat!
Then it was on to the war museum which had the most graphic pictures of the war. GIs hunched waiting to fire in ditches, vietnamese escaping acrossing rivers with their babies over their heads, two little Vietnamese boys walking down the road, and lieing dead in the next picture, GIs holding up the heads of Vietnamese as trophys, babies born with body parts missing. I spent a little while talking with a Vietnamese man just a little older than I am who lost his hands and leg at the age of ten by a landmine. Really friendly, kind man. He was excited when I said I was from the US.
For me the most poinient display in the entire museum was a little quote displayed at the entryway to a building that showed pictures of all the Vietnamese suffering. The quote is from July 4th, 1776.
We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable Rights, that among these are Life, Liberty, and the pursuit of Happiness.
If only....
Wednesday, December 08, 2004
Beach bathing
Ahhhh, now this is a town in Vietnam I could get used to. Actually I have spent a couple more days here than I planned already. A small little beach town with white sand beaches and crashing waves. Finally the rain has stopped and man that sun in Vietnam is a strong one. Thankfully there is just the right breeze that I can lie out in my bikini, under a palm tree, and not get too hot. Of course when I do there is the ocean right near by to jump into. Pretty big waves crash all day and night and make the perfect background noise when I'm going to sleep, or waking up in my beachside bungalow. I'm splurging on a $10 room so I have a view of the water as I lay in bed.
I've been hanging out with a few Irish who I met up in Hoi An. We get a meal, head back to our loung chairs and repeat. It is certainly true what they say about the drinking of the Irish. It has been dangerous for me to try to keep up. But we are having fun at the beach bar at night.
I am certainly not seeing the life style of many Vietnamese here. Mostly interacting with other travelers. But I've gotten lazy about going off the beaten path in Vietnam. It is so easy to do everything by tour here and I'm enjoying all the westerners I'm meeting. And I'm loving my spot on the beach. We also went sledding in these gorgeous sand dunes. How cool!
I've been hanging out with a few Irish who I met up in Hoi An. We get a meal, head back to our loung chairs and repeat. It is certainly true what they say about the drinking of the Irish. It has been dangerous for me to try to keep up. But we are having fun at the beach bar at night.
I am certainly not seeing the life style of many Vietnamese here. Mostly interacting with other travelers. But I've gotten lazy about going off the beaten path in Vietnam. It is so easy to do everything by tour here and I'm enjoying all the westerners I'm meeting. And I'm loving my spot on the beach. We also went sledding in these gorgeous sand dunes. How cool!
Tuesday, November 30, 2004
Sewing up a storm
This is a fasion haven's paradise. Hoi An is a small little town that has mostly dried out from the floods. Many streets consist of nothing but store after store of open front taylor shops; there are over 200 in the town. You just walk into one and glance through fashion magazines till you find something you want, pick out the fabric, get measured up, and your clothes are ready 5 hours later!!! Of course you can always design your own clothes, or bring in somthing to be copied. I got some new Nike running shorts, complete with Nike insignia stiching for a fifth of the cost in the US!!! Also got a jacket, couple long sleeve shirts, some pants, and a skirt.
The big question of the day is do I ship it home or carry it???
The big question of the day is do I ship it home or carry it???
Sunday, November 28, 2004
Hue inspirations
The streets were flooded in Hue and it wasn't much fun walking around with water up to my calves so I spent a lot of time in the cafes by my guesthouse with 2 friends. The ones were were in were covered in quotes and messages and drawings from all who had passed through. Here were some of my favorites:
- If you're not living life on the edge you're taking up to much space.
-"You can always count on America to do the right thing - once they've exhausted the alternatives" - Winston Churchill '43
-Being successful: To get what you want. Being Happy: To want what you have.
-Love like you've never been hurt. Dance like nobody's watching. Work like you don't need the money. And fuck like you're being filmed.
-Do not go where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. (Careful of mines though!).
I contributed twice to the wall. Once to share the Stevenson quote I shared on an earlier blog. And once for this:
"I'd rather be rich than stupid"
- If you're not living life on the edge you're taking up to much space.
-"You can always count on America to do the right thing - once they've exhausted the alternatives" - Winston Churchill '43
-Being successful: To get what you want. Being Happy: To want what you have.
-Love like you've never been hurt. Dance like nobody's watching. Work like you don't need the money. And fuck like you're being filmed.
-Do not go where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail. (Careful of mines though!).
I contributed twice to the wall. Once to share the Stevenson quote I shared on an earlier blog. And once for this:
"I'd rather be rich than stupid"
Rain Rain go away
I've spent the last 2 days with wet feet! There has been a typhoon in Vietnam. I got on a night train headed from Hanoi to Hue (about halfway down the East coast of Vietnam) after a fun Thanksgiving dinner at the R+R bar in Hanoi.
It was an eclectic group of Americans at the meal. One guy was a war veteran and shared some stories, but most were in town for work. I spent a lot of time chatting about relationships with a young 40 year old woman from Colorado who was married from 28-31. I think she was the closest to my age of anyone there. After the turkey and corn we hit an Irish pub for trivia night. Then I raced thru the city in the rain to catch my night train.
About 80 Kilometers before Hue we stopped for a while and were eventually told that the tracks were flooded and we'd be waiting at least a few hours- maybe a few days. So I got off with some other travelers and we chartered a minibus to take us. After squishinng into the van for about an hour and passing through many sections of the journey where we couldn't see the road under the water we had to turn around. The rain was still coming down and the water was rising. We passed many flooded houses. We got back onto the train in time to learn the water was down a little and we could pass all the way through. This time we got about 15 KM from Hue before a part that was impassible. Wouldn't you know we were the first vehicle the police turned back.
We were wet and unhappy to be doing circles, but I was seeing amazing things outside my window and had no time commitments to get to Hue so it wasn't a big deal. And I had _Cider House Rules_ to read and was perfectly content with the excuse to sit and follow Homer Wells' life. Luckily there was a really friendly Vietnamese guy who spoke great English and he took a bunch of us under his wing. We stayed just north of the train in the Demilitarization Zone. I shared a room with some nice women from Melbourne. And after noodle dinner with the vietnamese 'tour guide' another traveler- native also- took me as he got his hair cut. The shop was a concrete floor and small room w an open front to the street. Pretty rustic by US standard, perfect by Vietnamese standards. I got my hair washed as the rain poured out front. Many Asians seem to get their hair washed at the hair dressers w/out a cut. And I got another treatment, but I'm really not sure if it was meant to be a face massage or a facial. Whatever it was it was not so relaxing.
The next morning everyone I was with decided to head back to Hanoi (about a 12 hour bus ride) and to catch a plane from there. I decided I figured a way to get to Hue; I really did not want to back-track, and I had heard the roads were passable. I walked around in the rain and found the bus station and got a ride to Hue. This time we made it to the edge of town and the rain was too high to enter. So we strapped our bags on our backs, took off our shoes, hiked up our pants, and waded the 200 yards through it. Lots of Hue was flooded and many places were closed. I met up with a girl I had met in Hanoi. We shared a room with one of her friends. We took cyclo rides (the one person chair with a rider in the back) through the town for a couple of hours and saw some nice parks. I'm sure Hue would be even better if not under water. And I got up early this morning to move on- now I'm in Hoi An. It's much warmer and I can even see the sun :)
It was an eclectic group of Americans at the meal. One guy was a war veteran and shared some stories, but most were in town for work. I spent a lot of time chatting about relationships with a young 40 year old woman from Colorado who was married from 28-31. I think she was the closest to my age of anyone there. After the turkey and corn we hit an Irish pub for trivia night. Then I raced thru the city in the rain to catch my night train.
About 80 Kilometers before Hue we stopped for a while and were eventually told that the tracks were flooded and we'd be waiting at least a few hours- maybe a few days. So I got off with some other travelers and we chartered a minibus to take us. After squishinng into the van for about an hour and passing through many sections of the journey where we couldn't see the road under the water we had to turn around. The rain was still coming down and the water was rising. We passed many flooded houses. We got back onto the train in time to learn the water was down a little and we could pass all the way through. This time we got about 15 KM from Hue before a part that was impassible. Wouldn't you know we were the first vehicle the police turned back.
We were wet and unhappy to be doing circles, but I was seeing amazing things outside my window and had no time commitments to get to Hue so it wasn't a big deal. And I had _Cider House Rules_ to read and was perfectly content with the excuse to sit and follow Homer Wells' life. Luckily there was a really friendly Vietnamese guy who spoke great English and he took a bunch of us under his wing. We stayed just north of the train in the Demilitarization Zone. I shared a room with some nice women from Melbourne. And after noodle dinner with the vietnamese 'tour guide' another traveler- native also- took me as he got his hair cut. The shop was a concrete floor and small room w an open front to the street. Pretty rustic by US standard, perfect by Vietnamese standards. I got my hair washed as the rain poured out front. Many Asians seem to get their hair washed at the hair dressers w/out a cut. And I got another treatment, but I'm really not sure if it was meant to be a face massage or a facial. Whatever it was it was not so relaxing.
The next morning everyone I was with decided to head back to Hanoi (about a 12 hour bus ride) and to catch a plane from there. I decided I figured a way to get to Hue; I really did not want to back-track, and I had heard the roads were passable. I walked around in the rain and found the bus station and got a ride to Hue. This time we made it to the edge of town and the rain was too high to enter. So we strapped our bags on our backs, took off our shoes, hiked up our pants, and waded the 200 yards through it. Lots of Hue was flooded and many places were closed. I met up with a girl I had met in Hanoi. We shared a room with one of her friends. We took cyclo rides (the one person chair with a rider in the back) through the town for a couple of hours and saw some nice parks. I'm sure Hue would be even better if not under water. And I got up early this morning to move on- now I'm in Hoi An. It's much warmer and I can even see the sun :)
Thursday, November 25, 2004
Gobble Gobble
Happy Thanksgiving
Will be eating at a local bar having a turkey feast. Should be good to hang out with some Americans. I am meeting so few. That's ok b/c so many of the ones I'm meeting are fitting right into those stereotypes that makes everyone else hate Americans. Loud, pushy, greedy, inconsiderate, elitist. It is such an interesting perspective spending so much time with non- Americans. I have a hyper awareness of when I show those qualities.
Happy thanksgiving to everyone. Life feels great right now and I am so thankful for this travel experience. It makes it twice as good knowing I have the support and love of so many people back in the US. I am doubly thankful for all of you and for staying in contact across the distance.
Have a yummy day. Have fun if you're skiing. David- look out for the rocks :)
Will be eating at a local bar having a turkey feast. Should be good to hang out with some Americans. I am meeting so few. That's ok b/c so many of the ones I'm meeting are fitting right into those stereotypes that makes everyone else hate Americans. Loud, pushy, greedy, inconsiderate, elitist. It is such an interesting perspective spending so much time with non- Americans. I have a hyper awareness of when I show those qualities.
Happy thanksgiving to everyone. Life feels great right now and I am so thankful for this travel experience. It makes it twice as good knowing I have the support and love of so many people back in the US. I am doubly thankful for all of you and for staying in contact across the distance.
Have a yummy day. Have fun if you're skiing. David- look out for the rocks :)
Tastes like chicken
Hanoi has been great. So many sights and sounds and tastes! Tried to go for a run and couldn't get far because the shops and restaurants just flow out into the sidewalks all the way to the street. So you walk and run in the street with all the crazy motorbikes. Finally I got to a gorgeous park and had some quiet from all the honking. There are about a dozen rivers and lakes in Hanoi and many beautiful parks.
My guesthouse manager has been a great guide and he took me to have snake 2 nights ago. We were brought to a table and before I realized what was happening there was a snake slithering on the floor behind me. I big one- I'm not sure why I was picturing a little garden snake in my head.
They slit its throught and drained the cherry red blood into a glass. Cut the heart out into another. I won't go into all the details of the killing process, but it had too many sounds that I didn't like.
Eating it wasn't that bad. It doesn't really taste like chicken. They prepared it in a few ways- one was a spring roll. Wasn't so bad. I declined on the fresh heart though.
My guesthouse manager has been a great guide and he took me to have snake 2 nights ago. We were brought to a table and before I realized what was happening there was a snake slithering on the floor behind me. I big one- I'm not sure why I was picturing a little garden snake in my head.
They slit its throught and drained the cherry red blood into a glass. Cut the heart out into another. I won't go into all the details of the killing process, but it had too many sounds that I didn't like.
Eating it wasn't that bad. It doesn't really taste like chicken. They prepared it in a few ways- one was a spring roll. Wasn't so bad. I declined on the fresh heart though.
Monday, November 22, 2004
Ha Long Bay
Just got back from 3 days on the coast of Vietnam. Ha Long Bay is like no other place I have ever been. Hundreds of huge limestone rocks jutting 300 feet straight up out of the bay. Many covered in lush greenery.
I was there with a little tour and we spent the first day and a half on a big wooden sailing boat with a big deck and vietnamese lounge chairs on the roof. We spent lots of time sailing around the bay, checking out a huge cave, and swimming in the bay. I was quite content to sit up in the sun and breaze as we navigated the bay and read my book: Cider House Rulesby John Irving.
I was there with a little tour and we spent the first day and a half on a big wooden sailing boat with a big deck and vietnamese lounge chairs on the roof. We spent lots of time sailing around the bay, checking out a huge cave, and swimming in the bay. I was quite content to sit up in the sun and breaze as we navigated the bay and read my book: Cider House Rulesby John Irving.
Friday, November 19, 2004
Scammed by chocolate
Flew to Hanoi yesterday. Culture shock from the peaceful ways of Laos. This is a big bustling city complete with a bagillion motor bikes. To cross the street you have to just step off the sidewalk and go! There are no breaks in traffic. They just swerve around you.
I feel a little bad because I heard so much about how the Vietnamese try to scam travelers that I am scheptical of so many of them. Are there smiles genuine, or to lure me into a purchase? I am so cautious of getting scammed. And within 3 hours of being here I was !!!!!! While walking around the lake in the old quarter of town a woman came up to me and I looked in her basket to see what she was selling. It was a long, narrow donut. I told her "No, I'm not interested," and started to walk away. She didn't know much English, but enough to convey that there was chocolate inside. So of course I was interested and I turned back to her. She wanted 10,000 dong for 2, and I bargened down to 2,000 dong for 1. I was feeling quite happy about my bargenning skills as I sat on a bench to enjoy my treat. I imagine you can guess by now that there was no chocolate inside! And guess what else, my seller was no where to be found. Surprise, surprise. So that was my first, and hopefully my last Vietnamese scam. Lesson learned for only 13 cents :)
I feel a little bad because I heard so much about how the Vietnamese try to scam travelers that I am scheptical of so many of them. Are there smiles genuine, or to lure me into a purchase? I am so cautious of getting scammed. And within 3 hours of being here I was !!!!!! While walking around the lake in the old quarter of town a woman came up to me and I looked in her basket to see what she was selling. It was a long, narrow donut. I told her "No, I'm not interested," and started to walk away. She didn't know much English, but enough to convey that there was chocolate inside. So of course I was interested and I turned back to her. She wanted 10,000 dong for 2, and I bargened down to 2,000 dong for 1. I was feeling quite happy about my bargenning skills as I sat on a bench to enjoy my treat. I imagine you can guess by now that there was no chocolate inside! And guess what else, my seller was no where to be found. Surprise, surprise. So that was my first, and hopefully my last Vietnamese scam. Lesson learned for only 13 cents :)
Tuesday, November 16, 2004
Best day
Yesterday was just amazing from start to finish.
Started the day with a spectacular Lao massage. I ran 9 miles yesterday so I had a good excuse to splurge- although at $3 an hour I didn't need much of an excuse. Had the whole place to myself. Lying in a dark room with soothing Lao music was a perfect way to escape the 85 degree heat.
After I was all loosey goosey I took my book and headed to the river. There are som bamboo bars along the river. And I headed to one that was once in a bamboo tree forest, but is somewhat cleared out, so there are places for about 8 hammocks to hang, and a little bonfire at night. No one was around, so I had my pick of spots. I ordered up a pinapple shake and settled in for a few hours of reading in the cool breaze. I should also mention that my view was not only of my dirty feel, but the river and huge limestone mountains behind it.
Once it cooled down a little I met up with a canadian friend to go biking. After crossing a rickety bamboo bridge we headed over a really bumpy dirt road though villages and rice fields to a little blue lagoon. Bright blue water and a great tree hanging over it for jumping in. Perfect after the dusty and sweaty 45 minute ride.
To cap the perfect day off I splurged on a bottle of wine and ate dinner with my friends down by the river on a bamboo platform with pillows and cusions. River noises rushing by and a few shooting starts ahead. I can't tell you what I wished for or it won't come true, but once I have another day as wonderful as that, I'll be sure to tell you.
Started the day with a spectacular Lao massage. I ran 9 miles yesterday so I had a good excuse to splurge- although at $3 an hour I didn't need much of an excuse. Had the whole place to myself. Lying in a dark room with soothing Lao music was a perfect way to escape the 85 degree heat.
After I was all loosey goosey I took my book and headed to the river. There are som bamboo bars along the river. And I headed to one that was once in a bamboo tree forest, but is somewhat cleared out, so there are places for about 8 hammocks to hang, and a little bonfire at night. No one was around, so I had my pick of spots. I ordered up a pinapple shake and settled in for a few hours of reading in the cool breaze. I should also mention that my view was not only of my dirty feel, but the river and huge limestone mountains behind it.
Once it cooled down a little I met up with a canadian friend to go biking. After crossing a rickety bamboo bridge we headed over a really bumpy dirt road though villages and rice fields to a little blue lagoon. Bright blue water and a great tree hanging over it for jumping in. Perfect after the dusty and sweaty 45 minute ride.
To cap the perfect day off I splurged on a bottle of wine and ate dinner with my friends down by the river on a bamboo platform with pillows and cusions. River noises rushing by and a few shooting starts ahead. I can't tell you what I wished for or it won't come true, but once I have another day as wonderful as that, I'll be sure to tell you.
Thursday, November 11, 2004
Heads, Shoulders, Knees, and Toes
Just made it back to civilization after a week or so in places with no electricity, let alone internet.
I had the most fabulous week. AMAZING. Spend a lot of time in little villages where they are living in bamboo huts and cooking over open fire the way they did 100s of years ago probably. I bought a fishing boat with 3 other folks and we canoed down the Nam Ou river. Huge beautiful limestone clifts covered in foliage all around us. When the sun got low in the sky we would find a village to pull over and try to find a place to stay. We always got a warm welcome. I was the official communicator for the group b/c I know a few key Laos words. The first night the kids just stood around and stared at us. They rarely rarely see white people there. It wasn't long before I got out my digital camera and was showing them pictures of themselves. They were in awe. Then I started joking around with them. It was amazing. I had 25 or 30 kids all around me watching my every move. Just joking around. I was facinated by how much I could connect with them while only knowing a few words in common. Lots of laughing. One village I got them to sing "Heads, Shoulders, knees, and toes." And in a larger village I went to school for a few hours with the girl I was staying with. I even got to stand up in front of the class and teach a little.
The people of Laos are so generous and friendly. Just welcoming us into their homes, sharing their dinner, and bed (or floor space really) with us. One place I stayed I was showing them pictures I brought from the US. They asked to keep one of me and the little girl put it right up on the wall. How cool to think my picture may be in this little village for years to come.
I had the most fabulous week. AMAZING. Spend a lot of time in little villages where they are living in bamboo huts and cooking over open fire the way they did 100s of years ago probably. I bought a fishing boat with 3 other folks and we canoed down the Nam Ou river. Huge beautiful limestone clifts covered in foliage all around us. When the sun got low in the sky we would find a village to pull over and try to find a place to stay. We always got a warm welcome. I was the official communicator for the group b/c I know a few key Laos words. The first night the kids just stood around and stared at us. They rarely rarely see white people there. It wasn't long before I got out my digital camera and was showing them pictures of themselves. They were in awe. Then I started joking around with them. It was amazing. I had 25 or 30 kids all around me watching my every move. Just joking around. I was facinated by how much I could connect with them while only knowing a few words in common. Lots of laughing. One village I got them to sing "Heads, Shoulders, knees, and toes." And in a larger village I went to school for a few hours with the girl I was staying with. I even got to stand up in front of the class and teach a little.
The people of Laos are so generous and friendly. Just welcoming us into their homes, sharing their dinner, and bed (or floor space really) with us. One place I stayed I was showing them pictures I brought from the US. They asked to keep one of me and the little girl put it right up on the wall. How cool to think my picture may be in this little village for years to come.
Tuesday, November 02, 2004
Chin beer
Made it to a little town in the North of Lao. It was a crazy bus ride. The first 4 hours I had a woman throwing up out the window the whole time because the roads were so windy. But that wasn't as bad as when I switched busses for the 2nd 4 hours. There were 31 of us in a 16 passenger bus. Quite cramped. And way to bumpy to hold my book still to read. Not that I was able to because my arms were pinned to my side. The scenery was gorgeous at least. Lush hills. And every once in a while we'd come across a tiny village with about 10-30 bamboo huts together. Little kids playing outside.
Today I have been exploring. Not many people speak English here. I was invited to join in on lunch with a big group of Chinese (we are close to the border). So much fun. We could only communicate a very little. Mostly by me pointing to words in the Laos/English section of my Lonely Planet book. There was lots of singing and merriment. They invited me to come back to their village with them. That will have to be another day.
Today I have been exploring. Not many people speak English here. I was invited to join in on lunch with a big group of Chinese (we are close to the border). So much fun. We could only communicate a very little. Mostly by me pointing to words in the Laos/English section of my Lonely Planet book. There was lots of singing and merriment. They invited me to come back to their village with them. That will have to be another day.
Sunday, October 31, 2004
Lao Festival
I wish I could capture more than just images in my camera. There are 5 senses and my camera doesn't even do justice to what I see. Last night was the most amazing festival celebrating the end of the rainy season; a true feast of the senses. I hope my memory will suffice to remember it always.
Townspeople from distant towns showed up to watch the night parade where handmade boats were shown off down the main street. The boats were of bamboo and tissue paper and many were brilliantly lit up. There was singing and dancing and fire twirling and fireworks going off. The boats were led to a big temple on the edge of the Mekong River. My friends and I joined in the parade as we had a tiny boat to float as well. As tradition, we added our fingernail clippings to the boat to cut off any bad luck. From atop the hill the Mekong seemed to be floating christmas lights down it- hundreds of tiny boats with candles drifting away. Hundreds of us stood on the banks and watched the big boats go in. Some sank, some floated, always to great cheers.
Townspeople from distant towns showed up to watch the night parade where handmade boats were shown off down the main street. The boats were of bamboo and tissue paper and many were brilliantly lit up. There was singing and dancing and fire twirling and fireworks going off. The boats were led to a big temple on the edge of the Mekong River. My friends and I joined in the parade as we had a tiny boat to float as well. As tradition, we added our fingernail clippings to the boat to cut off any bad luck. From atop the hill the Mekong seemed to be floating christmas lights down it- hundreds of tiny boats with candles drifting away. Hundreds of us stood on the banks and watched the big boats go in. Some sank, some floated, always to great cheers.
Traveling quote
Today I had lunch with a guy from Utah and some Canadians who are making a film about traveling. They interviewed me on film and I read them a quote Adam wrote in the front of my journal. It says it all so well:
For my part I travel not to go anywhere, but to go: I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move; to feel the needs and hitches of our life more nearly, to come down off this featehrbed of civilization, and find the globe granite underfoot, and strewn with cutting flints.
-Robert Louis Stevenson
For my part I travel not to go anywhere, but to go: I travel for travel's sake. The great affair is to move; to feel the needs and hitches of our life more nearly, to come down off this featehrbed of civilization, and find the globe granite underfoot, and strewn with cutting flints.
-Robert Louis Stevenson
Thursday, October 28, 2004
Red Sox rock the party that rocks the party!!!
What is the world coming to? I am afraid the Earth may internally combust; I never thought this would happen. The morgues in Boston must be overflowing; so many people would die to see the Red Sox win the World Series, and so many people have been waiting their whole lives.
I am jumping inside. I so wish I were in Boston to share in the merriment. Unfortunately I didn’t even get to see the game! I was in a town with no electricity when the game started then was floating down the Mekong River to get to Luang Prabang. Tried to get here early to see the game, but it was impossible. The town I was in had no roads.
I woke up early and got bananas at the market so I could give Alms to the monks this morning. I did it in honor of the Red Sox. So I think I am at least partially responsible for the World Series win.
Since I am doing Peace Corps and will be in Thailand for so long I decided I wanted to travel now and see what there is to see in SE Asia. So now I am in Laos for a few weeks. Next will be Vietnam, then Cambodia, before back home for New Years. And PC at the beginning of January.
I am jumping inside. I so wish I were in Boston to share in the merriment. Unfortunately I didn’t even get to see the game! I was in a town with no electricity when the game started then was floating down the Mekong River to get to Luang Prabang. Tried to get here early to see the game, but it was impossible. The town I was in had no roads.
I woke up early and got bananas at the market so I could give Alms to the monks this morning. I did it in honor of the Red Sox. So I think I am at least partially responsible for the World Series win.
Since I am doing Peace Corps and will be in Thailand for so long I decided I wanted to travel now and see what there is to see in SE Asia. So now I am in Laos for a few weeks. Next will be Vietnam, then Cambodia, before back home for New Years. And PC at the beginning of January.
Tuesday, October 26, 2004
Peace Corps
Hold the phone. Scratch everything. I was planning on setteling in Chiang Mai for at least 6 months. Working at a school, or an NGO. But I wasn't feeling it. I was there for a week and definately felt in a funk. When I was in Pai I did a lot of thinking and decided I want to do the Peace Corps. I was accepted late this summer to a Thailand program, but didn't think it would end up happening. I've realized it's just the thing for me. I am a little nervous about the commitment, but mostly excited. I'm concerned about being away from the states for so long. And about being away from so many people I love for so long. But I hope all my friendships can sustain the distance and time. I should have pretty regular access to email too. A plus and a minus. For I realize it will be really good for me to get out of my western mindset for a little while. To adopt the Thai lifestyle of generousity, and relaxation could only do me good. Stir up things a little anyway. Peace Corps has been a dream of mine- a life goal- for many years. And I don't think i could ever be lucky enough to get Thailand again, if I reapply later. The Thai are so generous and I know I would be welcomed into a community. It is not really rustic by Peace Corps standards, either. I should have a shower wherever I live, not sure if I'll have hot water tho. I'll make about $5 a day to cover all expenses, which shouldn't be too tough either.
Friday, October 22, 2004
Wednesday, October 20, 2004
Running
Still loving Pai. I went on an 11 mile jaunt this morning through the lush hills (yes, hills) and wound up at an amazing waterfall. It feels so good to get out and strech my legs. I haven't run this far in months.
And what is better than Thai food for lunch when done with a run? Fun little restraunt where we sat on the floor and leaned against cushions. No walls, just an elevated floor and a roof.
I am off to go to a jazz cafe where I plan to lay in a hammock and read my book. A Prayer for Owen MeanybyJohn Irving. Janet's recommendation and a great one. Probably I'll get my daily Chai Ice Tea there.
This afternoon Yemu and I are treating ourselves to body scrubs. I'll tell you all about it afterwards.
And what is better than Thai food for lunch when done with a run? Fun little restraunt where we sat on the floor and leaned against cushions. No walls, just an elevated floor and a roof.
I am off to go to a jazz cafe where I plan to lay in a hammock and read my book. A Prayer for Owen MeanybyJohn Irving. Janet's recommendation and a great one. Probably I'll get my daily Chai Ice Tea there.
This afternoon Yemu and I are treating ourselves to body scrubs. I'll tell you all about it afterwards.
Tuesday, October 19, 2004
Pai in the sky
Things were not going well in Chiang Mai. I was feeling in a funk. Wasn't finding a job and wasn't meeting the people I was hoping to. There are a lot of people who are in CM for a few days only. There are a bunch of ex-pats who are around longer term, but they are mostly 50 year old men. I don't have enough Thai speaking skills to become great friends with Thais.
So I needed to get out for a bit. I put a change of clothes into my tiny backpack and headed to Pia- a northern city of 3000 people. The 4 hour bus ride took us over very windy roads though the lushest forests. It reminded me of remote Hawaii. Palm trees and so much greenery. The bus was crazy. They packed about 40 of us onto a bus probably meant for 30 max. Rickety fans swirling on the ceiling and windows down the whole way. Luckily I had seat. People in the aisles were fortunate because we were transporting rice bags, so if they could sit they had a little cushoning. The bus was OLD and when we went around steep corners something under me made a serious scraping noise.
Now I am in Pai and LOVING IT! So gorgeous. So relaxed. Cute little bungalows. The people I am traveling with are so much fun, and fascinating to talk to. There is Peter who is from South Africa and is so intelligent. He has no desire for formal education, has taught himself most of what he knows and plans on being a writer. Danielle is from Canada and is quite sweet. Yume is from England and my roommate for the trip. She is very relaxed and lovely to chat with. We have had lots of discussions about how different our upbringings and home culture is, and lots of giggles too. It is interesting to have conversations with all these very different people who I get along with and who have different values from me. Thought provoking.
These are the days I was looking forward to when I imagined myself in Thailand. And we have yet to hit the bar. :)
So I needed to get out for a bit. I put a change of clothes into my tiny backpack and headed to Pia- a northern city of 3000 people. The 4 hour bus ride took us over very windy roads though the lushest forests. It reminded me of remote Hawaii. Palm trees and so much greenery. The bus was crazy. They packed about 40 of us onto a bus probably meant for 30 max. Rickety fans swirling on the ceiling and windows down the whole way. Luckily I had seat. People in the aisles were fortunate because we were transporting rice bags, so if they could sit they had a little cushoning. The bus was OLD and when we went around steep corners something under me made a serious scraping noise.
Now I am in Pai and LOVING IT! So gorgeous. So relaxed. Cute little bungalows. The people I am traveling with are so much fun, and fascinating to talk to. There is Peter who is from South Africa and is so intelligent. He has no desire for formal education, has taught himself most of what he knows and plans on being a writer. Danielle is from Canada and is quite sweet. Yume is from England and my roommate for the trip. She is very relaxed and lovely to chat with. We have had lots of discussions about how different our upbringings and home culture is, and lots of giggles too. It is interesting to have conversations with all these very different people who I get along with and who have different values from me. Thought provoking.
These are the days I was looking forward to when I imagined myself in Thailand. And we have yet to hit the bar. :)
Friday, October 15, 2004
hot and sweaty
The weather in Chiang Mai is a little cooler than in Bangkok. But it is still hot and humid. We are at the end of the rainy season and the weather is going to get even a little cooler. I don't know the exact temp cuz everything here is in C.
I had my second Thai lesson this morning. It is slow going. The tones are killer.
And I've been walking around the CM University trying to get a job. Nothing so far, but I met a nice guy from California who has been teaching here for 14 years. He says I should just show up on the first day and they almost always need teachers. He also said I will have no problem finding a job somewhere which is encouraging. He also told me I'm going to have major visa problems which is discouraging.
I am hot and sweaty from walking around campus all day. Thais don't walk much. They always drive on their scooters or cars. I've also been traveling in "Sung-tows" which litterally means "two-rows". They are basically pickup trucks with a metal canopy over the back and two rows of benches along the sides. That is their form of taxi in CM. They also have Tuk-tuks which I think I already wrote about. Either way you have to bargin a price with the driver before you get in.
I am going to check out a bar nearby which is supposed to have lots of ex-pats who are teachers and work at NGOs. I hope someone will be able to help with a job. I stumbled across a new language school that is looking for English Teachers. They were very interested in me. Should be good....
I had my second Thai lesson this morning. It is slow going. The tones are killer.
And I've been walking around the CM University trying to get a job. Nothing so far, but I met a nice guy from California who has been teaching here for 14 years. He says I should just show up on the first day and they almost always need teachers. He also said I will have no problem finding a job somewhere which is encouraging. He also told me I'm going to have major visa problems which is discouraging.
I am hot and sweaty from walking around campus all day. Thais don't walk much. They always drive on their scooters or cars. I've also been traveling in "Sung-tows" which litterally means "two-rows". They are basically pickup trucks with a metal canopy over the back and two rows of benches along the sides. That is their form of taxi in CM. They also have Tuk-tuks which I think I already wrote about. Either way you have to bargin a price with the driver before you get in.
I am going to check out a bar nearby which is supposed to have lots of ex-pats who are teachers and work at NGOs. I hope someone will be able to help with a job. I stumbled across a new language school that is looking for English Teachers. They were very interested in me. Should be good....
Wednesday, October 13, 2004
Chiang Mai
Was feeling really unproductive in Bangkok so I decided to head on up North. I took an overnight bus ride to Chiang Mai where I plan on settleing for 7 months or so.
Chiang Mai is the second largest city in Thailand and has about 160,000 people in it. Not nearly as crowded or crazy as Bangkok, but it has all the city ammenities.
I got a used bike and have been exploring the city. Met some other travelers and even a few locals. I think it may be frustrating that so many people come in and out so frequently. A guy from Santa Cruz I met comes for a few months every year and he said the average stay is 2.5 days. Maybe it's just the neighborhood that I'm in though.
I looked into a long term place today, but am not sold on it. I'd like to find a place where I won't have to move out of while I'm here, but I don't know the city well enough to pick an area yet. I'll do some more research tomorrow.
So my first day in the city was grand. I already have a few job leads and plan on making a bunch more calls tomorrow. I found a place that will be showing the Red Sox games! And also stumbled across the meeting pub for the Hash House Harriers (a national running club). And found a gym and massage place, both that come with high recommendations.
Today I had my first Thai lesson from a sweet Thai woman. She taught me a lot in the first half hour, but it is slow going. The word Mai can be said in 5 different tones to mean 5 different things. It is so tough. I am practicing.
Chiang Mai is the second largest city in Thailand and has about 160,000 people in it. Not nearly as crowded or crazy as Bangkok, but it has all the city ammenities.
I got a used bike and have been exploring the city. Met some other travelers and even a few locals. I think it may be frustrating that so many people come in and out so frequently. A guy from Santa Cruz I met comes for a few months every year and he said the average stay is 2.5 days. Maybe it's just the neighborhood that I'm in though.
I looked into a long term place today, but am not sold on it. I'd like to find a place where I won't have to move out of while I'm here, but I don't know the city well enough to pick an area yet. I'll do some more research tomorrow.
So my first day in the city was grand. I already have a few job leads and plan on making a bunch more calls tomorrow. I found a place that will be showing the Red Sox games! And also stumbled across the meeting pub for the Hash House Harriers (a national running club). And found a gym and massage place, both that come with high recommendations.
Today I had my first Thai lesson from a sweet Thai woman. She taught me a lot in the first half hour, but it is slow going. The word Mai can be said in 5 different tones to mean 5 different things. It is so tough. I am practicing.
Sunday, October 10, 2004
Thai dii nit-noy
I forgot to share the hightlight of my market expereince yesterday.
Just after I got to the market I went up to a vendor to get these little fried eggs. They have a grill about the size of a large serving plate with little half-circle divits- about 1.5 in diameter. It looks like a big, black painters pallate. And they crack these little eggs- I'm not really sure from what bird- into each one. One 50 cent order is for about 10 of these eggs, served with vinegar on a bed of cabbage. Yummy ('Alloy' in Thai).
I spoke to the man only in Thai: saying hello, asking how much, ordering, and thanking him. He spoke only in Thai to me too. As I was leaving I heard him tell his partner (in Thai) that i speak Thai well. I turned around and smiled and said 'nit-noy' ('a little bit'). He clearly got a kick out of the whole thing, and i did too.
Just after I got to the market I went up to a vendor to get these little fried eggs. They have a grill about the size of a large serving plate with little half-circle divits- about 1.5 in diameter. It looks like a big, black painters pallate. And they crack these little eggs- I'm not really sure from what bird- into each one. One 50 cent order is for about 10 of these eggs, served with vinegar on a bed of cabbage. Yummy ('Alloy' in Thai).
I spoke to the man only in Thai: saying hello, asking how much, ordering, and thanking him. He spoke only in Thai to me too. As I was leaving I heard him tell his partner (in Thai) that i speak Thai well. I turned around and smiled and said 'nit-noy' ('a little bit'). He clearly got a kick out of the whole thing, and i did too.
Saturday, October 09, 2004
Thai Massage
I found a few massage parlours that gives swedish massages. It's a little more expensive than a Thai Massage( one hour is $6.10 versus $4.40), but with the Thai massage they twist you all over the place, and it has been troublesome for my knee. Last evening after my hot and sweaty day at the market I got one. So fabulous. My theory on why all the Thais look so young is that they treat their bodies right and they get massages all the time because they are so cheap. Unfortunately that doesn't pan out exactly because the massages are not cheap for the Thais. Things are so cheap compared to the US because they have such a little profit margin, and therefore don't make much money at all.
I found a gym!! I have been slacking on my fitness routine and am so excited to go for a run. I have been able to run a few times when I've been out of Bangkok, but it is not only too hot to run here- there is no room at all. Auto and pedestrian traffic EVERYWHERE. Walking is often a problem. So I am off to the gym for a nice work out....
I found a gym!! I have been slacking on my fitness routine and am so excited to go for a run. I have been able to run a few times when I've been out of Bangkok, but it is not only too hot to run here- there is no room at all. Auto and pedestrian traffic EVERYWHERE. Walking is often a problem. So I am off to the gym for a nice work out....
Market Madness
Spent the day at the big weekend market. They have over 15,000 stalls. I spent 5 hours there and probably saw 30%. There is everything you could imagine. Lots of pets- fish, birds, cats, dogs. Lots of clothing, and lots of bags. Lots of everything. And food everywhere. Since I am still not settled and still have traveling I didn't want to get a lot of stuff to have to schlep around. So I ended up buying lots of food. LOTS!! It is all so good.
I sat at lunch with a honeymooning couple from Sydney. The man was wearing a Yankees hat. I asked him why he would do such a thing, his reply "To keep the sun out of my eyes." I told him I thought he could find many things less embarrasing to wear for that purpose. There is a lot of Yankee paraphanalia. I especially saw a lot of people wearing their gear in Honk Kong.
I sat at lunch with a honeymooning couple from Sydney. The man was wearing a Yankees hat. I asked him why he would do such a thing, his reply "To keep the sun out of my eyes." I told him I thought he could find many things less embarrasing to wear for that purpose. There is a lot of Yankee paraphanalia. I especially saw a lot of people wearing their gear in Honk Kong.
Red light district
Last night I met up with Travis, a contact Colleen gave me. He is a teacher in Bangkok and was out with a few buddies. We met at a nice pool bar and then went to a dance club. In transit they decided they wanted to stop at a go-go bar and asked if that was ok. There is a big prostitution scene here and I think it's concentrated in one area. It's not very blatent, or maybe I'm just oblivious. But as we walked down the street men stood in doorways, or approached us and invited us to come see a ping-pong show. There are lots of venues that have naked women showing their vaginal talents. We did not take anyone up on a ping-pong show.
We did enter a go-go bar where there were about 20 women in bikinis on stage- each moving, with different degrees of enthusiasm, next to a pole. There was music and it was on the dark side, but it was not an uncomfortable scene. Unless someone had told me I wouldn't have known there were women there who could be taken home for money. I definately felt sad for some of the women. Some actually had small numbers pinned to their outfits so customers could request someone from the stage. Some looked bored silly. Some looked like they were having fun. One girl I spoke to looked about 15. She said she was 20 and had worked there for a year. They were all very friendly. And I don't mean that in a pick-me-up kind of way.
We did enter a go-go bar where there were about 20 women in bikinis on stage- each moving, with different degrees of enthusiasm, next to a pole. There was music and it was on the dark side, but it was not an uncomfortable scene. Unless someone had told me I wouldn't have known there were women there who could be taken home for money. I definately felt sad for some of the women. Some actually had small numbers pinned to their outfits so customers could request someone from the stage. Some looked bored silly. Some looked like they were having fun. One girl I spoke to looked about 15. She said she was 20 and had worked there for a year. They were all very friendly. And I don't mean that in a pick-me-up kind of way.
Friday, October 08, 2004
On my own
I am back from Hong Kong. Totally on my own for the first time really. It is good. It is what this trip is about. Yet at the same time I am totally excited to meet people. Where I am staying in Bangkok is a backpackers haven. Everyone is traveling and it is really easy to meet people. I met a nice guy on the bus from the airport. Turns out he is a teacher in Chiang Mai and he gave me loads of advice on getting a job up there.
The past two nights I have been out till past 4 with all the fun people I am meeting. There is a rockin night life here.
Thursday, October 07, 2004
Hong Kong Travels
I came to Hong Kong on the 2nd to meet up with Janet, who had been in Indonesia for work. I think 6 days has been long enough to get my lifetimes fill of this city. It only took a few hours of being here to be homesick for Thailand. The Honkers are so fast fast fast, push, push, push. It is a flashy and crowded city.
My first day here Janet and I went to Macau- basically a Portugal Island. As we waited in the customs line a lady of about 75 barged up and pushed me over trying to get in front of me. Quite amusing, but left a bad taste in my mouth for Honkers.
We saw a couple monestaries, saw a HUGE buddah, took a tram ride to the top of the peak, took a hike, walked through a few markets, got our palms and faces read, took a ferry to Hong Kong Island, rode the longest escalator in the world (20 minutes), and ate a lot of dumplings. The highlight of the trip was hanging out with Janet. What a fun chick she is.
The craziest thing I saw was a fish market where they have lots of sea creatures out for purchase. Many are swimming in little pools. I watched one woman pick a big fish; after it was weighted a paid for the supplier took is butcher knife and knocked the fish out (or rather, killed it) with the side of the blade. There were innards flying out.
Also they had cut fish lying in ice. The were cut lengthwise, in a special way that the heart stayed intact. That way the heart could continue to beat and supply blood around the body and keep it fresher. You could actually see the little hearts beating.
Thursday, September 30, 2004
Tuk-Tuk
I'd like to write about my favorite form of traveling. In a Tuk-Tuk. They are these three-wheeled, open-air, diesel-gusling, air-poluting little taxis. Tiny little things that zoom around the city. They are everywhere. There is a bench behind the driver with room for two adults. There is no meter, so you have to negotiate a price before you get in. They like to take tourists for a ride- if you know what I mean :). It is tough to bargain if you don't know how far the place is you are going. But luckily there are many around, so you can take a stab and if you are way off, go to the next guy and bargain up to 5 Baht more.
They are so fun to ride in. It is great to be out in the thick of things, instead of seperated by a plate of glass. Although sometimes the A/C in a taxi is just what you need. Especially if you don't want to inhale all the smog.
Wednesday, September 29, 2004
curly hair
Lovin the humid weather. The warmth wraps me up. It makes the cold showers pleasant and gives me a great excuse to get some Chai Yen (Thai Ice Tea). The best part about the humidity is that it is making my hair thick and curly! We love it.
Tuesday, September 28, 2004
Ko Chang
Just got back from 5 days on Ko Chang (elephant Island). Which is off the Thailand Gulf near Cambodia- about a 4 hour bus and one hour ferry from BK ( I got to drive the boat part of the way).
It's paradise! Blue warm water, lush forrests, kindest people, and few 'farangs' (non-Thais). It was a great introduction to the laid-back nature of Thailand. I stayed in a bungalow just 20 yards from the waters edge, and most days I spent the majority of my time on the porch in front reading, writing, chatting with Dan, or gazing out at the occational fishing boat in the water. I'd swim each day. I'd walk into the little town each day and Dan made friends with a shop owner who didn't speak much English. She had a little place with about 5 tables, right on the street, and a 6 x 10 foot cooking area. The back was where she lived. We got soup from her. A clear broth with wide rice noodles, some meat, and some veggies. All Thai food is spicy, and this was no exception.
I went for a few runs. Such a nice way to see an area. Slower than a car, but faster than walking. And slow enough to say a few words to people I pass in the street. Most people live at their shops, and they are all open-air places, so there are many people to say hi to. I was a bit of a spectacle, because I don't think they have many runners in Thailand.
The highlight of the trip was Yom Kippur. I did it right this year. I didn't go more than 100 yards from the bungalow all day. Just sat on the porch writing and reading. Lots of reflecting. I looked back over my year. And spent a lot of time thinking about my goals for the upcoming year, my time in Thailand. I think I filled up a quarter of my journal. I took a few dips in the ocean of course. Chatted with some passerbyers. And I broke the fast with none other than chocolate!!!!
I will certainly make it back to Ko Chang this year. Hopefully I'll have some visitors to show the place to.
Tuesday, September 21, 2004
Cell Phone Number
I got a new card for my cell phone.
My number here is 666-987-9638.
To help you remember: 666- yur w me too. Does that help? I'll try to think of something better.
My number here is 666-987-9638.
To help you remember: 666- yur w me too. Does that help? I'll try to think of something better.
All smile, all the time
Life moves slower here. We just sit and chat for an hour. Asking the concierge a question takes 25 minutes because we get into a long conversation about Thai and English languages. There is always lots of smiling and laughing involved in any conversation. A dozen prophetic signs at the airport said "All smile, all the time." A perfect description for the Thais and for me in the upcoming year!
I've learned a few words, but it doesn't come easily. Hello is Sawat -dii kha. I can also say thank you, good, no, temple, and noodles. At Adam's suggestion I learned "Beautiful shirt" which is a great conversation starter. I have a lot to learn. I can't wait to take a class.
Today has been more adventures and some taking care of business. I can't believe I haven't even been here 48 hours. I am alreay 90% on the right sleeping schedule. Last night was 12-7am. Today we saw an Olympic ice-cream making contest. I also got my cell phone squared away, got my last rabies shot (at 4% of the cost it was in the US).
Dan and I also bought tickets to go to Koh Chang (elephant Island) tomorrow till Monday. It's an adventure and I'm along for the ride.
I've learned a few words, but it doesn't come easily. Hello is Sawat -dii kha. I can also say thank you, good, no, temple, and noodles. At Adam's suggestion I learned "Beautiful shirt" which is a great conversation starter. I have a lot to learn. I can't wait to take a class.
Today has been more adventures and some taking care of business. I can't believe I haven't even been here 48 hours. I am alreay 90% on the right sleeping schedule. Last night was 12-7am. Today we saw an Olympic ice-cream making contest. I also got my cell phone squared away, got my last rabies shot (at 4% of the cost it was in the US).
Dan and I also bought tickets to go to Koh Chang (elephant Island) tomorrow till Monday. It's an adventure and I'm along for the ride.
Initial impressions
I haven't even been here 24 hours and I feel like I've seen a billion things. How fabulous is this city? I am SO HAPPY. I can see a year here flying by.
I only slept a couple hours last night b/c of jet lag and because I was so excited to get my adventure started. I can't believe I'm here in Thailand.
I already had some adventures. I met up with Dan Caplan, a gregarious guy. 3 degrees of seperation type of deal. He's been here before and knows how to get around. We went on a boat ride and got off at one of the billions of Temples. We made friends with some monks there. One guy invited me to stay with him and his family any time I am back in Bangkok area. We did lots of walking and I took my first tuk-tuk ride, little canopy covered, 3-wheeled bench. You have to bargain with the driver for a price and he usually has no regards for traffic rules.
My initial impressions of Bangkok
1) it's hot
2) everything is super cheap. Internet at a cafe is about $.75 an hour. My 30 minute cab ride was under $6. A 30 minute massage was $5.
3) Thais are SO NICE. I know that's cliche, but it's so true.
4) It's smoggy
5) Life is lived on the sidewalks; everything you need is right there.
I checked out some markets today. I'm restraining myself from all the inexpensive clothing. We'll see how long it lasts.
I only slept a couple hours last night b/c of jet lag and because I was so excited to get my adventure started. I can't believe I'm here in Thailand.
I already had some adventures. I met up with Dan Caplan, a gregarious guy. 3 degrees of seperation type of deal. He's been here before and knows how to get around. We went on a boat ride and got off at one of the billions of Temples. We made friends with some monks there. One guy invited me to stay with him and his family any time I am back in Bangkok area. We did lots of walking and I took my first tuk-tuk ride, little canopy covered, 3-wheeled bench. You have to bargain with the driver for a price and he usually has no regards for traffic rules.
My initial impressions of Bangkok
1) it's hot
2) everything is super cheap. Internet at a cafe is about $.75 an hour. My 30 minute cab ride was under $6. A 30 minute massage was $5.
3) Thais are SO NICE. I know that's cliche, but it's so true.
4) It's smoggy
5) Life is lived on the sidewalks; everything you need is right there.
I checked out some markets today. I'm restraining myself from all the inexpensive clothing. We'll see how long it lasts.
Saturday, September 18, 2004
I left my heart in San Francisco
Stopped over in San Francisco to see my peeps and break up the long trip (28 hours all together). I love this city and the people here. Got to see the Red Sox beat the Yankees at one of my old stomping ground bars. Had an omlette and some sushi. Swung by school and got a million hugs from all my kids.
I am full of nervous energy about the trip. So much is ahead and unknown. It's all really happening now. Adam has gotten me SO excited about what lies ahead. All the adventure and growth. He has put the trip into a great perspective. I can't believe I'll be there in 20 hours. Off to Asia for a year. OH MY GOD!
I will miss SF so much. What an amazing city. I'll be back.
Thursday, September 16, 2004
Photo Op
I did a really fun photo shoot for Matt's dad. Check out some of the best shots at
http://www.obsessio.com/rachel_gallery/ So cool!!!
Sunday, September 12, 2004
off to a new world
I am writing from Newton, MA. The dust is still setteling from David's wedding. And I am still unpacking my life from the last three years in San Francisco. But I am also packing a small backpack to sustain me in Thailand for the next year. REI is my new favorite store.
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